An Ultimate Guide to Mera Peak Climbing

Mera Peak Climbing, soaring to a height of 6,461m/21,190ft, is the highest trekking peak of Nepal that sits in the Khumbu region and is the best place to witness 5 of the 14 highest mountains of this globe; Mount Everest (8848.86m), Kanchenjunga (8586m), Lhotse (8516m), Cho Oyu (8201m), and Makalu (8481m).

It lies in the Hinku Valley of the Everest Region, and climbing Mera is popular among tourists as it owns an easy and less technical route than other peaks. It is the perfect acclimatization peak for those adventurers who wish to climb high mountains such as Ama Dablam, Manaslu, and Everest.

The trekking route to Mera Peak lies off the beaten path in the less-visited Hinku Valley. The trail is isolated, there the area is wild and pristine, having very few settlements, and passes through the Makalu Barun National Park. During the trek, you will be staying at teahouses located in the yak pastures or summer camps.

Spending a couple of days in the Khare and other camps, you will ascend to Mera High Camp (5,780m). From here you will push the final summit. However, the route is easy having very little technical climbing involved. The entire Himalayan panorama from the summit is splendid.

During the trekking and climb, the safety of the entire team members is paramount and should be given the top priority. It is possible only going through the experienced Sherpa experts who are already been to the higher mountain massifs. Thus Outward Adventure Treks and Expedition manages well-experienced local Sherpa leaders who have already been to Everest five times to twenty-one times having 20+ years of experience in the tourism industry.

Similarly having proper acclimatization days is necessary for a successful climb. You may need not to spend more days in Kathmandu or Lukla but must have acclimatization days in Khare. And if you want more can extend those days in Thuli Kharkha too. From here you can extend your journey to Amphu Laptsa Pass as well if you want more adventure. Climbers wishing to skip the Lukla flight can choose the journey to Phaplu which is the best alternative.

Trip Highlights

• Stand at the highest trekking peak of Nepal - Mera Peak (6,461m/21,190ft) with the veteran Sherpa leader.
• Reach the top of the peak in the shortest period compared to other trekking peaks.
• Trek passing Khumbu valley and reach Hinku valley which is off the beaten route.
• Pass Zatrwa La, one of the most beautiful mountain passes, and several glaciers.
• Climb a straightforward route to summit Mera with minimal technical climbing.
• Get the panoramic and splendid views of the five 8,000-meter peaks from the summit - Mount Everest, Kanchenjunga, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, and Makalu
• Witness diverse flora and fauna inside the Makalu Barun National Park.
• Get authentic Himalayan experiences, interact with the true mountain Sherpas and experience the teahouse stay.

Mera Peak Climbing Route

A 15 to 18 days journey – Mera Peak Climbing is one of the few enthralling adventures which takes you to one of the remotest parts of the world and makes you step into the highest point of the entire trekking peaks of Nepal. Travelers will pass through the untouched Hinku valley, located in the Everest region with plenty of Himalayan flora and fauna. Even in the peak seasons, the trekking route remains less crowded.

The journey to Mera Peak begins, with a short yet enthralling mountain flight Lukla from Kathmandu or Manthali. The flight passes over tall mountains and precipitous cliffs making it one of the world’s most extreme flying experiences. Then you will meet other crew members ( porters) and begin your journey. The first day’s trek will take you to the small village of Chutanga.

You begin your Mera Peak adventure with a scenic and memorable flight to the Sherpa town of Lukla. The flight over tall mountains and precipitous cliffs is counted as one of the world's most extreme flying experiences. You start your trek after landing at the narrow airstrip.

In the next couple of days, you will make your way past thick forests having rhododendron and pine along with other trees, gushing rivers, and pristine streams with the occasional views of the mountains from different viewpoints.

You will have enjoyed the splendors of nature without any interruption. Climbers will cross over to the Hinku valley after crossing the magnificent Zatrwa La, a high mountain pass that connects Khumbu valley and Hinku valley.

In this valley, only a few villages with very few people live in the scattered teahouses. There are numerous summer camps and large yak pastures where the yak herders use these uninhabited areas to build their summer camps known as 'chakras.' Far from civilization, teahouses along with the route offer only basic services – shelter, food, communal toilet, and a warm bed.

On the seventh day of your trek, you will reach Khare which is the most popular village in this region where you will spend one more day acclimatizing and attending pre-climb training. Here your Sherpa will give a demo climb; you will learn how to use climbing gears and equipment. Ice climbing practices are also organized to make you comfortable.

All the gear and equipment will be checked for the last time and you will move to the High Camp for the final push after spending a night at Mera High Camp. Generally, people reach Mera High Camp skipping the Mera Base Camp in a single day.

Your final climb to Mera Peak will begin at Mera High Camp after spending a night camping there. Each climber will get a single tent to sleep in. The local crew will prepare food. Healthy and nutritious meals will be provided.

The final ascent to the summit will begin at around 2 am when the weather is calm and less windy although the temperature is freezing. Doing so, you will be able to watch the magnificent sunrise over the 8000m peaks. The group will be secured by a man-rope, and the crews and climbers will walk in a single file. It is a gradual uphill hike with no technical sections involved. It is normal to feel out of breath and wheezy as the oxygen is very thin at this altitude.

AN ultimate around 50 meters to the summit is the most stimulating. It is a steep upward climb where your climbing leaders fix jumars and ropes to reach the top. Upon reaching the top, the magnificent views of Mt Everest (8848.86m) Kanchenjunga (8586m), Lhotse (8,516m), Cho Oyu (8,188m), and Makalu (8,485m) - 5 of the 14 eight-thousanders will welcome you all with the magnificent smile.

You will celebrate your victory with your teammates. You did it. After a lot of struggles, you finally made it in your favor. Yes, you achieved what you set to do, and it is a great moment. You will capture each moment with your camera and will keep your steps back towards the High Camp. From the High Camp, you will descend to Khare on the same day. You will trek down to Lukla via the same route. From there you will catch the morning flight to Kathmandu ending your trip.

Best time for climbing Mera Peak

Although Mera Peak climbing is possible throughout the year except, for monsoon months, autumn (September, October, and November) and Spring (March, April, and May) are the best months to climb it due to numerous reasons.

It is a doable peak for an amateur as well as an experienced climber. The novice climbers climb it as their achievement and preparation for the higher mountain expedition, however, the experts climb it for practice climb before climbing 8000m peaks. The weather up in these altitudes does tend to become quite unstable. This weather along with the freezing temperatures adds to the thrill and excitement of the Mera Peak climb.

The novice trekker should choose one of those two seasons to climb it because they should be favored by many things and one of them is the weather. But for the avid trekkers, a season is never a hurdle. It is both motivation and a challenge for making the best of the journey.

More description of the different seasons and weather conditions for the Mera Peak Climbing is given below.

Autumn at Mera Peak

Autumn is one of the most popular seasons for trekking and peak climbing in Nepal including Mera Peak. This period lasts throughout September, October, and November. All the mist and dust in the environment are swept by the summer rainfall, and the rivers, lakes, and streams are full of water and will be in their full glory. You can see many streams and waterfalls that are not seen in the other months.

Among those months, October is considered the best month to trek and peak climbing as the monsoon is stopped and weather is favorable and the temperature is stable. The average temperature starts to drop by mid-November. For this, you must carry some extra pairs of warm clothing. You can enjoy light snowfall at the end of November.

During autumn, you can also enjoy the lush green forest and vegetation. The air is crisp and fresh after the monsoon. The average temperature during the autumn is about 12 degrees celsius on the days and drops around 5 degrees celsius during the night.

Thus, during this season, you will get the most stable, dry, and clear weather conditions which makes it a lot more comfortable for climbing. You get the best of everything during this season. From the nicest skies to perfect sunrise and sunsets, the Mera Peak climb is fabulous during this period. The trekking routes are busiest during these months. You should book the hotels, rooms, and flights earlier in this time as they might be unavailable in the meantime.

Spring at Mera Peak

Spring is another perfect season to trek and peak climb in Nepal. March, April, and May are the spring months in Nepal which welcome thousands of mountain nomads to the high Himalayas including Everest, Manaslu, Ama Dablam, and many others.

You can witness the flowers in full bloom. Throughout the trekking routes inside the Makalu Barun National Park, you can see plenty of rhododendron and other wildflowers during your trek to Mera. Along with them, you may encounter some beautiful flora and fauna in alpine vegetation.

The weather is so clear and dry with splendid visibility. The magnificent pictures of colorful hills and silvery mountains can be captured while trekking and climbing.

Since March, the temperature begins to increase. The snow on the trekking routes begins to melt and days remain warm and sunny even in the high hills. However, don’t forget to pack rain jackets and trousers. Traction spikes also become an important gear during treks up mountains.

During the day, the average temperature remains around 10 degrees celsius and it declines up to -4 during the nights and early mornings. Thus please do not forget to pack down jackets and pants along with other climbing gear and equipment.

Winter at Mera Peak

Winter (December, January, and February), witnesses occasional snowfall in Mera Peak and it tends to get very windy. Climbers can expect cold weather conditions and climbers must be well prepared for Mera Peak. The winter months are great for those who enjoy the snowy adventure. Thus the with appropriate gear and equipment make this climbing blissful

Above the High Camp, the temperature might get decline up to -30° Celsius. During this period, you might face the chilly atmosphere as well where is often a tempest blowing at a speed up to 80 km/hr. However, the days are sunny, warm, and bright. We recommend that expert adventurers climb any peak in Nepal including Mera Peak in winter.

Monsoon/Summer at Mera Peak

In Nepal, the summer overlaps the monsoon season and there is plenty of rainfall in almost every part of Nepal except some rain-shadowed lands of Mustang and Dolpa. During June, July, and August. You will experience torrential rains or snowfall during this season. The trekking routes get muddy and slippery due to the rain. The mosquitos (in lower elevations) and leeches are other problems of this season.

Gear and Equipment List for Mera Peak Climbing

While packing, you should plan wisely, the important gears should not be left and be repeated as well. Here is the list of some important gear and equipment for climbing Mera Peak.

Head

• Wide-brimmed bonnet 
• Balaclava (which should cover your ears)
• Beanie Cap
• Sunglasses with UV protection  and Snow goggles (Carry some spare ones in case of lost or broken)
• Neck gaiter or warmer
• Headscarf (useful for dusty conditions)
• Headlamp (carry some spare batteries and bulbs)

Upper Body

• T-shirts (breathable and moisture-absorbing) (Outward Adventure Provides one)
• Long sleeve T-Shirts/Shirts (breathable and moisture absorbing)
• Fleece pullover or wind-proof jackets (two)
• The thermal base layer
• Down vests (at least two)
• Gore-Tex jacket with hood, waterproof and breathable (Outward Adventure Provides one)
• Expedition weight insulated down jacket with hood
• Waterproof shell jacket

Hands

• Summit Mittens; warm and insulated ones with safety straps
• A pair of poly-liner gloves (lightweight)
• A pair of fleece gloves

Lower Body

• Hiking shorts
• Synthetic insulated pants
• Trekking trousers; waterproof, breathable fabric
• Non-cotton underwear briefs
• Hardshell trousers
• Lightweight thermal leggings of merino wool

Footwear

• Lightweight hiking boots; sturdy soles, water-resistant, ankle support
• Double-insulated climbing boots
• Running shoes and rubber sandals/flip-flops
• Lightweight inner socks,
• Heavy poly or wool socks
• Cotton socks
• Gaiters
• Crampons

Sleeping Gears

• A 4-season sleeping bag; suitable for temperatures as low as -40°C
• Therm-a-Rest sleeping pad (NeoAir XTherm) which offers insulation and warmth in sub-freezing temperatures
• Fleece sleeping bag liner and pillowcase
• Foam pad

Personal Climbing Gears and Equipment

• Screwgate karabiners (2 locks, 2 unlock)
• Helmet
• Ice axe and harness
• Ascender/Jhumar
• Descender/eight-figure
• Tape slings (2)
• Prusik rope
• Plastic mountaineering boots

Rucksack and Travel Bags

• Large duffel bag (Outward Adventure Provides one having 90 L capability)
• A small daypack/backpack(30-40L) for carrying your valuables should have good shoulder padding
• Waterproof covers
• Small padlocks for duffel-kit bags

Medical

• A first aid kit box (although our Sherpa carries one)
• Skin-blister repair kit
• Anti-diarrhea pills
• Throat lozenges
• Paracetamol and cough /cold medicine
• Anti-altitude sickness pills (Diamox or Acetylzolamide are recommended)
• Stomach antibiotic  
• Other medicine as prescribed by your doctor
• Water purification tablets or the water filter

Practical Items

• Small roll of repair tape, sewing-repair kit
• Cigarette lighter / small box of matches
• Alarm clock/watch
• Camera with extra SD cards and batteries
• Large Ziploc bags
• 2 water bottles (1 liter each and refillable)
• Lightweight steel thermal bottle
• Small folding or Swiss knife
• 4 large, waterproof, disposable rubbish sacks
• Socket adapter Type C (with circular pins)
• Trekking poles(foldable and good quality)

Toiletries and Other Personal Items

• Earplugs, lip guard, eye drops
• Extra pair of prescription glasses, contact lens supplies
• Face and body moisturizer
• Female hygiene products
• Toothbrush/paste (preferably biodegradable)
• Multipurpose soap (preferably biodegradable)
• Sunscreen
• Small sachets of shampoo
• Deodorants
• Nail clippers
• Small mirror
• Medium-sized quick-drying towel
• Personal Hygiene
• Anti-bacterial handwash
• Hand sanitizer
• Pee Bottle (1 liter, leak-proof, wide mouth)
• Pee funnel (for females)
• Wet wipes (baby wipes)
• Tissue /toilet roll

Luxury Items (Optional)

• Trail map/guidebook (We provide each one)
• Journal and pen
• Reading book
• Binoculars
• Playing cards (to help you pass the time at teahouses and/or camps)

Essential Documents

• Passport having at least 6 months validity (with a couple of photocopies)  
• At least 4 passport-sized photos
• Airline Tickets, Insurance Hard Copy
• Nepali Rupees for paying for restaurants and hotels, gratuities, and snacks ( You can exchange in Kathmandu Airport, in the banks of Thamel, or Money Exchanges but be sure about that day’s exchange rate)

Recommended Itinerary for Mera Peak Climbing

Day 1: Kathmandu (1,338m/4,390ft) Arrival

Day 2: Kathmandu Sightseeing and Climbing Preparation

Day 3: Fly Lukla (2,850m/9,350ft) and trek to Chhutang (3,100m /10,170ft) - 4 hours

Day 4: Trek Chhutang to Tulikharka (4,300m/14,107ft):  6 to 7 hours

Day 5: Trek Tulikharka to Kothe (3,580m/11,745ft): 6 to 7 hours

Day 6: Trek Kothe to Tangnang (4,358m/14,297ft) 5 to 6 hours

Day 7: Trek Tangnang to Khare (5,045m / 16,552ft): 5 to 6 hours

Day 8: Rest day at Khare (5,045m / 16,552ft) – Acclimatization and Ice Climbing Practice

Day 9: Trek Khare to Mera High Camp (5,750m/18,865ft): 5 to 6 hours

Day 10: Climb Mera High Camp to Summit to Mera Peak (6,476 m / 21,247 ft) and back to Khare (5,045m / 16,552ft):  9 to 10 hours

Day 11: Contingency Day ( In case of bad weather, acclimatization, etc.)

Day 12: Trek Khare to Kothe (3,580m/11,745ft):  6 to 7 hours

Day 13: Trek Kothe to Tulikharka (4,300m/14,107ft) 6 to 7 hours

Day 14: Trek Thulikharka to Lukla (2,850m/9,350ft): 7 to 8 hours

Day 15: Fly Lukla  to Kathmandu (1,338m/4,390ft): 35 minutes flight

Day 16: Rest Day in Kathmandu (1,338m/4,390ft)

Day 17: Final Departure (Airport Drop)

Extra tips for Mera Peak Climb

• Mera Peak Climbing is a mountain climb. There are no teahouses after Khare. So, you will spend a night or two camping. So be ready for camping accommodation.
• Be well prepared with the right mountaineering gear and supplies when you might face sub-zero temperatures.
• Choose the right company and experienced Sherpas only. The Sherpas having Everest Expedition experiences will be beneficial.
• Acclimatize yourself properly. It is crucial to a successful Mera Peak Climb.  Don’t rush. You are in your dream. If not comfortable take a day's rest before moving up.
• Carry necessary gear and equipment only. Take the help of our climbing experts before packing your bags.
• If possible, get to know your guide and support staff. Getting comfortable with them and making changes before your actual trek is beneficial.
• Train in your trekking and mountaineering boots/shoes. This will be helpful while walking in the actual walk/climb.
• Participate in the practice program organized by your Sherpas in Khare or Mera Base Camp. You may need to use crampons, harnesses, and an ice axe to climb Mera Peak. If you don’t have the skills for these, indulge in a basic mountaineering training course.

Final Say

Mera Peak Climbing is one of the most popular trekking peaks in Nepal which gives perhaps the best views of  5 of the 6 highest mountains in the world: Everest, Kangchenjunga, Lhotse, Makalu, and Cho Oyu. The standard climbing route involves little more than high-altitude glacier walking. The ease of reaching this elevation may be its biggest danger but good weather and snow conditions are, of course, necessary for safety and success. With a bit more preparation than trekking to Everest Base Camp, you can achieve this peak.