Ama Dablam Expedition - Rapid Ama Dablam Climb

Trip Grade :
Demanding to Strenuous
Max-Altitude :
6,812 m [22,349 ft]
Duration :
20 Days
Destination :
Nepal
Climbing Region :
Everest/Khumbu
Activity Performed :
Trekking and Expedition
Nature of the trek/climb :
Lodge to lodge trekking and camping
Trek Begins and Ends at :
Kathmandu
Accommodation :
Hotel in Kathmandu, Local Lodge or Teahouse during the trek, and Camp during the climb
Group size :
Minimum 02 and Maximum 10 People
Included meals :
Breakfast while in Kathmandu and All three meals (Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner) throughout the trek and Expedition
Best Time to Climb :
September, October, November, March, April and May
Attractions :
Kathmandu, Lukla, Sagarmatha National Park, Namche Bazar, Tengboche Monastery, Ama Dablam

Starting Price

$5280 per person


Highlights

  • Climb one of the most technical mountains in Nepal challenging yourself with a technical climb in the icy lands having tricky landscape above Base Camp to Camp I and II and finally reach the summit of Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft).
  • Obtain some of the highest mountains of the planet including Everest 8848.86m/29032ft), 8,516 metres (27,940 ft), Makalu (8,485m/27,838ft), and dozens other peaks in the Khumbu-Maha Langur mountain range.
  • Eyewitness the historical, architectural, and religious gems in the Kathmandu valley along with some UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
  • Experience short, scenic, and enthralling mountain flight to and from Lukla airport.
  • Visit one of the most popular monasteries in the planet; Tengboche monastery and the oldest monastery of Pangboche in the Khumbu region 
  • While in the Base Camp, observe Kantega, Thamserku, and Tawoche along with other mountains.
  • Trek passing the ethnic Sherpa settlements in the Dudh Koshi River valley witnessing their self and unique cultures, dresses, traditions and lifestyles.

Overview

Ama Dablam Expedition, a climb to 6,812 m  (22,349 ft), popularly known as the Matterhorn of Himalaya is situated in the eastern Himalayan section of the Khumbu region inside the Sagarmatha National Park of Nepal which is also one of the most impressive, beautiful, and stunning mountains in the World. Ama Dablam is one of the most spectacular moun­tains in the world and a true alpinist’s dream. This unforgettable climb in the Khum­bu region of Nepal involves a cultural trek into base camp, technical rock, snow, and ice climbing, and stunning panoramic summit views of Ever­est, Lhotse, and Makalu.

Ama Dablam sits in the heart of the Khumbu region, a well-worn path to the Everest Base Camp trek. This stunning mountain massif is admired by thousands of trekkers and climbers who pass through the Everest trail. However, the Mountain derives its name from the glacier position on its southwest face at 6500 meters where the suspended glacier looks like a jewel box hanging on the neck of the Mountain, although the name Ama Dablam, literally meaning ‘the mother’s jewel box.’

Ama Dablam captures every imagination of the alpine climbers that stands alone in the Khumbu valley towering almost 3000 m above the famous Sherpa village-Tengboche and Pangboche. Considered as one of the technical mot peaks to summit, climbing Ama Dablam is reserved for dedicated alpinists, who have built skills and experience in much more than simply high-altitude walking. The successful climber will have solid multi-pitch climbing experience on rock and ice, and be comfortable climbing technical terrain with a pack on, taking care of themselves in very high alpine camps, and spending days at a time in exposed terrain.

A journey to Ama Dablam Expedition begins from Kathmandu. On the first day of the journey, we land at Kathmandu and the next day we fly to Lukla and begin trekking. In the trekking, we follow the beautiful Everest Base Camp trek trail till we reach Pangboche. Then leaving the EBC trail, we catch the Ama Dablam Base Camp trek route. Reaching Ama Dablam Base Camp, we set a journey gradually to Camp I, and Camp II, and move further for the final summit.

Trekkers/climbers will have teahouse accommodation in trekking, till we reach Ama Dablam Base Camp and above the base camp, we will use camping accommodation during the climbing period. Required tents and all related accessories will be arranged by Outward Adventure Treks and Expedition

Best Season for Ama Dablam Expedition

Among others Nepal also has four major seasons; spring (March to May), Summer ( June to August), Autumn (September to November), and Winter (December to February). Among them, spring and autumn are regarded as the best seasons for climbing Ama Dablam.

Spring (March to May): Spring is the ideal period for climbing Ama Dablam (6812m)  including other 8000m peaks in Nepal. During this period, there are clear skies, unobstructed views, mild temperatures, no or only occasional rain/snowfall, and so forth.

On the way, you will meet the Everest summiteers who are walking towards the Base Camp or returning from there practicing acclimatization, etc. Diverse flora and fauna inside the Sagarmatha National Park make your journey even more special.  From the top of Ama Dablam, one can witness the entire Khumbu region including Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and a dozen other mountain peaks that are unobstructed.

Autumn (September to November): Autumn is another perfect and most recommended season for climbing Ama Dablam. Numerous climbers chose autumn for climbing Ama Dablam during this period.

We recommend autumn for climbing Ama Dablam in several ways. During these months, you will have favorable weather conditions, astonishing views, and many more. The entire atmosphere looks lush green and all the dust particles are swept away by the continuous rainfall in the monsoon period.

Not only that, all the teahouses are now open, all the mountaineers are gathered and you will have the guide you choose. You can join other groups if you are a solo climber as well during this period. It is the time of festivals and you can see the people with colorful cultural dresses enjoying themselves with family and friends years later and organizing different programs including playing swing, dancing, and so forth.

Itinerary Overview

Day 1: Kathmandu Arrival (1338m/4390ft)
Day 2: Fly Kathmandu to Lukla (2,860 m/9384 ft) and trek to Phakding [2,652 m/8,700 ft]: 9 km/3-4 hours
Day 3: Trek Phakding to Namche Bazaar (3,440 m/11,283 ft): 10.5km/5-6 hours
Day 4: Namche Bazaar: Acclimatization Day - Hike to Everest view hotel
Day 5: Trek Namche Bazaar to Pangboche (3,985 m/13,074ft): 6 hours
Day 6: Trek to Ama Dablam Base Camp (4,570m/14,994ft): 3 hours
Day 7: Pre-Climbing Training at Base Camp and Worshipping Ceremony at Ama Dablam Base Camp  (4,570m/14,994ft)
Day 8: Climb to Camp I (5,700m/18,700ft) and back to Base Camp (4,570m/14,994ft)
Day 9: Trek Ama Dablam Camp I (5,700m/18,700ft) and spend overnight there
Day 10: Climb Camp II (6,000m/19,685ft) and hike back to Base Camp (4,570m/14,994ft)
Day 11: Rest at Base Camp (Prepare for ultimate summit push)
Day 12: Climb to Ama Dablam Camp I (5,700m/18,700ft)
Day 13: Climb to Amadablam Camp II (6,000m/19,685ft)
Day 14: Early night summit push (6,812m / 22,349ft) and back to Camp II (6,000m/19,685ft)
Day 15: Contingency Day (In case you could not push summit on previous day due to the bad weather and other conditions)
Day 16: Climb back to Ama Dablam Base Camp(4,570m/14,994ft)
Day 17: Trek back to Namche Bazaar (3,440 m/11,283 ft)
Day 18: Trek back to Lukla (2,860 m/9384 ft)
Day 19: Fly back to Kathmandu (1338m/4390ft)
Day 20: International Flight

Itinerary

Namaste and Welcome to Kathmandu!

Outward Adventure Treks and Expedition welcomes you to this land of the Himalayas. You are here for your great wish to complete; Climbing Ama Dablam rapidly. Upon your arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport, you will be greeted and welcomed by one of our representatives who will offer you garlands at the airport's arrival gate. He will drive you to your hotel in Thamel, the tourist hub in Kathmandu valley.

Once you check-in, you will rest your jet-lagged body and freshen up. If you are landed at the daytime, you will meet your climbing guide in the late afternoon who will brief you about your upcoming adventure and you can go through the gear and equipment list. If needed you will buy/hire from the shop near your hotel (There are plenty of gear/equipment shops in Thamel). Late in the evening, you can stroll around the Thamel, testing Nepali cuisines and observing life.

Spend overnight at the hotel there.

After enjoying breakfast, we embark on a scenic flight from Kathmandu to Lukla, offering breathtaking views of mountains, rivers, hills, and settlements during the 35-minute journey. The landing at Lukla's Tenzing Hillary Airport is renowned for its excitement as the runway is perched on a cliff. Upon arrival in Lukla, we commence our trek towards Monjo, the gateway to Sagarmatha National Park.

The trek involves a 2-hour walk to Ghat, passing by prayer wheels, and stupas, and crossing suspension bridges while enjoying the company of yaks and porters. After 3 hours of walk in total, we arrive in Phakding, have lunch there, explore around the surroundings and stay overnight in a lodge

With the break of day, we will commence our trek on the trail progressing across Dudhkoshi River via a long suspension bridge. Thereafter, the trail makes its way beyond the enchanting woodland of rhododendrons and fir to Monjo. Shortly, we will arrive at the entry point of the Sagarmatha National Park (a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1979A.D.), where we are required to show our trekking permits. Succeeding the check of the permits, we move along the trekking trail to Jorsale.

On the way, we catch the sight of beautiful Mani walls. Finally, we now ascend 600m uphill to Namche Bazaar (3,440m), the Sherpa capital of the Khumbu region. Generally, the initial sight of Mt. Everest (8,848.86m), Nuptse (7,861m), and Lhotse (8,414m) can be spotted upon arriving at Toap Hill. Surrounded on three sides by mountain ranges; the Sherpa settlement of Namche Bazaar opens out towards Dudh Koshi River, and functions as a center of commercial as well as the administrative activity of tin entire region.

Once we arrive at Namche Bazaar, we will have a day off for acclimatization. In the next two days, we will ascend above 4000m, so this time is especially important for your body to adjust to the altitude in addition to reducing the risk of altitude sickness.

While it is a rest day, we may take a short hike to the hills above Namche Bazaar, toward the settlement of Syangboche. Here, we will visit the Everest View Hotel — one of the world’s highest luxury hotels. From the hotel’s sundeck, we can savor panoramic views of Ama Dablam, Thamserku, Mount Everest, Nuptse, Kwange, Kangtega, Lhotse, Taboche, and Khumbila. On our way back to Namche Bazaar from our hike, there will be an opportunity to enjoy the Everest Photo Gallery and Sherpa Culture Museum.

 

After an acclimatization, we set another adventure for Pangboche today. It is a small village with beautiful mountain vistas surroundings. As we are in the high elevations gradually, must be careful of the altitude related hazards. Viewing the last golden rays of the sun over Himalayas, we shall wait for our dinner. Overnight will be at small but cozy lodge.

Today we will reach a little closer to our destination as we head towards the Ama Dablam Base Camp. The base camp of Aba Dablam Peak is located at an altitude of 4800 meters. The base camp is the gateway to summiting the Ama Dablam peak.

Reaching the Ama Dablam Base Camp means we have successfully accomplished half of our Ama Dablam Expedition without any issues. The next day is the big day we start the climbing process. Tonight we shall spend the night at the base camp of the Ama Dablam Peak in tented camps.

Our guides will provide training on peak climbing techniques and the best ways of using climbing gear such as the ice axe, climbing boots, crampons, harnesses, ascenders, etc. The training will also include using ropes for climbing both up and down. The training will boost our confidence and climbing skills, thus increasing our chances of a successful summit of the mountain.

A puja/Worshipping ceremony is done usually to wish their upcoming journey to be successful. We also will organize a small worshipping ceremony for our upcoming journey to be perfect. Cheers!!

Our climbing journey begins today. We will follow our well-experienced leader and move
upward for Camp I. A gradual upward hike will show the astonishing scenery of the mountain
vistas. Upon reaching Camp I, the tented camps will get prepared with the bits of help of the
Sherpa leaders. We will sleep awaiting another big day. This is because we need to be well acclimatized in the surrounding atmosphere.

Upon reaching there, we will spend some time and will be back to Base Camp via Yak Camp. Overnight will be at Ama Dablam Base Camp. 

Early in the morning after packing up your gears at Base Camp, we will climb straight ahead to the Southwestern Ridge. On the way, we will cross Yak Camp, previously used as another camp before Camp I. From the plateau, the tricky turn lands on a sharp cutting edge. From there the climb is rather easier as you walk on a sandy trail. We will climb up and over huge granite boulders as the trail progresses further.

Take a steep rock slab on the final part of the climb for today. Looking back, the trail seems treacherous. On the rock platform, we will find the camp for the day. Strong winds blow in this region so get inside your camp and warm yourself up.  Overnight stay at a tented camp in Camp I.

As the altitude sees a drastic change, your body cannot easily adjust to the drop in oxygen level. Hence, to avoid altitude sickness, you must acclimatize on this day. Late after breakfast, we will leave Camp I and head on to Camp II. This is the first technical climb in the entire trip; hence it can get relatively difficult.

The ropes have been fixed by the guides so clip on to the ropes and begin your climb. Taking small and steady steps with fourth and fifth-class moves, we will head to the Yellow Tower, the focal pitch of the climb. Reaching there, we will head back to Base Camp again to get well prepared for the final summit push.

Overnight will be at Ama Dablam Base Camp.

As the days of the trek are longer and more tiresome, it is vital to take some rest. Hence, the day has been separated for resting before the much-awaited climb. We should not stress ourselves too much by taking hikes.

Instead, we can enjoy some warm food, play cards with the crew, keep ourselves hydrated, read a book, and soak up the warm sun.  Also, the guide will keep us informed on the best day for the climb as per the weather forecast. Overnight stay in Ama Dablam Base Camp.

Our climbing journey for the summit push begins today. We will follow our well-experienced leader and move upward for Camp I. A gradual upward hike will show the astonishing scenery of the mountain vistas. Upon reaching Camp I, the tented camps will get prepared with the bits of help of the Sherpa leaders. We will sleep awaiting another big day. Overnight stay in Ama Dablam Camp I.

Today we will ascend to Camp II which is 6000m on the ridge of the mountain. The clouds look
below us and we feel that we are above the sky. From here astonishing views of the high
mountain massifs are observed.
During our climb, we follow our leader maintaining an appropriate pace. Reaching the camp, we
get to rest, acclimatize ourselves and await our final push to Ama Dablam.

Our biggest dream is coming true this day. Awaking early in the morning, and having a quick
meal prepared by our leaders, and other crews, we begin our journey to 6,812m, the top of Ama
Dablam. The route is a bit technical so we follow every step of our climbing Sherpas and reach
the top of it.
Standing at the top of the mountain we will have the picturesque mountains of the Khumbu
region including Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Makalu, and many others. Capturing each moment in
our cameras, we gradually make our way back to Camp II. Today we spend our overnight there
and wait a night to be back to Base Camp.

In case you could not push the summit on the previous day due to the bad weather and other
conditions, we will ascend to the top today. Otherwise, we hike back to Base Camp and get rest.

Today, from Camp II, we get back to Camp I and further back to Base Camp with the great
pleasure of success. Your dream has come true and we are able to celebrate your success now.
Overnight will be at Base Camp.

We slowly return to civilization as we venture down the valley and return to Namche Bazaar. Remember to turn around and enamor at the snow-capped peaks for one of the last times as we leave the heart of the Everest Region. Overnight will be at one of the fine lodges there

Leaving Namche we descend through the forest towards the Dudh Kosi, and continue our return journey crossing and re-crossing the river. It will seem like a long time since we ascended through the villages on our first days of the trek, as we have witnessed many stunning views on our trek into the highest mountain range in the world.

Retracing our steps along the valley, we pass through a variety of settlements and forests before a gentle climb to Lukla. We savour our final mountain sunsets of the trek as we complete this exhilarating journey. Our last evening of the trek is a perfect time to celebrate a successful journey and say thanks to the team, especially the porters who will return to their villages from here.

Catching an early flight, we fly back to Kathmandu today. On the way back, we will greet the Himalayan vistas for the last time. From the windowpane of the aircraft, we will get the astonished views of the lush hills, snow-clad peaks, terrains, vales and so forth.

This day marks the end of your Ama Dablam Climbing trip as you bid farewell to our team for a homeward departure. You will be driven to the Tribhuvan International Airport before 3 hours of your international flight. On your way back, you will reminisce about the amazing trek to the Khumbu region and most particularly, the climb to the Ama Dablam peak summit. We hope that you are genuinely satisfied with our services and expertise. We expect to see you again and share your magical experience again and again.

Have a safe journey.  

Cost Includes

    Transportation

    • All the ground transfers (hotel and airport transfers, sightseeing) via private vehicle
    • Kathmandu - Lukla - Kathmandu via domestic flight

    Accommodation and Food

    • Two nights in Kathmandu in  a 3-star category hotel (Twin Sharing)
    • Twelve nights in the best available local lodge/ teahouse during the trek (Twin Sharing)
    • Five nights at a tented camp during the climb (Above Base Camp)
    • All standard meals [Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner] throughout the trek and climb
    • Available seasonal fruits throughout the trek/climb
    • Breakfast in Kathmandu
    • Farewell Dinner in Kathmandu

    Staff

    • A Government licensed English-speaking trekking guide including wages, meals, insurance, lodging, transportation, flight, and other necessary gear equipment.
    • For more than six trekkers, one assistant guide includes wages, meals, insurance, lodging, transportation, flight, and other necessary gear equipment.
    • A porter for two trekkers/climbers including wages, meals, insurance, lodging, transportation, flight, and other necessary gear & equipment
    • A climbing guide during the climbing including his accommodation, transportation, food, salary, transportation, and insurance

    Permits and Taxes

    • Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit
    • Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Entry Permit
    • Ama Dablam Expedition Climbing Permit
    • All other government, local taxes, and official expenses

    Additional

    • A Gortex (100% Waterproof) Duffle bag to keep your personal belongings to be carried by the porter 
    • Assistance in arranging rescue operations in case of complicated health conditions (funded by travel insurance)
    • Everest Base Camp trekking map, t-shirt,
    • Outward Adventure Appreciation Certificate after the successful trek

      A First Aid Medicine bag in each group (carried by trekking leader)

Cost Excludes

    • International Flight Cost

    • Nepal Entry Visa Fees

    • Extra baggage check-in during the flight (Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu) if more than 15 KG, 01 USD per KG extra, can pay directly to the airline.

    • Extra night accommodation in Kathmandu due to early arrival or late departure, or early return from the trek

    • Personal expenses such as alcoholic drinks, shopping, snacks, boiled bottle water, hot (Tea/ Coffee) and cold drinks, hot shower, alcohol, Wi-Fi, telephone call, battery re-charge fee, extra porters, etc

    • Additional costs suffered due to causes beyond our control, such as natural disasters, weather conditions, itinerary modifications due to safety concerns, emergency evacuation, changes in government policies, strikes, and so forth

    • Tips for guides and porters (Tips are expected and appreciated)

Extra Information

Ama Dablam Climbing Route

The most popular route for climbing Ama Dablam is the Southwest Ridge Route which was ascent first in 1961 by the climbers from New Zealand and the US. Since that day, each year the number of climbers has been increasing each year using this route. This route is a bit technical but offers unprecedented mountain views every step of the way once you march above the Base Camp.

Once you approach the Base Camp of this mountain, the climb is divided into three to four other sections. From the base camp, a section will be reached spending four to eight hours. The altitude from Base Camp to Camp I (5,639m/18,500ft) is just 1000m or 3300 feet which will be achieved in just about 6 to 8 hours.

Once, you are in Camp I, you will prepare for the technical part of your climb. And Camp I to Camp II (6,350m/20,800ft) is just 300m above which takes about three hours. Expeditioners will make their way over granite blocks and head to the Yellow Tower, which features modest 4.11- and 5-Grade climbing.

From the Camp II, you will prepare for the final summit push. Corossing a couple of towers and ridges, you will make your way there. This is a great combination of mixed climbing that will recompense you for the hard work (and any trudging) you had to do in the previous days. Fighting the cold, you don’t have to worry about any false summits before hitting the peak and looking out over the immense landscape below.

From the summit, you will have astonishing sceneries and entire landscapes which will amaze you. While climbing down from the summit, be extra careful as it can be risky. Even though this is the most popular route, other expeditions can drop wreckage and rocks while making their way back to Base Camp.

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