Mera Peak Climbing Difficulty

How difficult is the Mera Peak Climb?

  • 2023-09-09
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Mera Peak Climbing, the journey to the highest trekking peak of Nepal takes you to the Hinku Valley of the Solukhumbu region of northeast Nepal.  Situated at 6476m above sea level, Mera Peak is perhaps the best acclimatization climb for high mountain massifs such as Mt. Everest, Ama Dablam, Mt. K2, Cho Oyu, and other 8000m peaks.

Despite being the highest trekking peak, it is a moderately difficult climb where most of its route is non-technical and straightforward. Achieving it can be difficult because of its height, weather, and some crevasses. Mera Peak is a range of three summits; Mera South (6,065m), Mera Central (6,461m), and Mera North (6,476m). Among them, Mera North (6,476m) is the most popular among climbers. The peak is situated between the off-beat track of the Hongu and Hongu river valleys on the west and east correspondingly.

era Peaks were achieved at different times by the different expedition teams. Mera Central was first climbed and ascended by Col. Jimmy Roberts and Sen Tenzing in 1953, while Mera North was first ascended by Marcel Baus and L. Honills in 1975, however they were discovered by the popular British expedition team consisting of Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay in the early 1950s. Since its discovery, this peak has gained popularity among both novice and experienced climbers and for the photogenic sceneries of Mt. Everest and other 8000m peaks in Nepal.

Mera Peak climbing has been deemed a slightly challenging climbing peak according to the alpine grade due to the changes in the glacial structures in recent days. It is best matched for first-time climbers who have had experience in high-altitude climbing and are physically fit.

Parameters for Mera Peak Climbing Difficulty

Numerous factors make Mera Peak's climbing journey challenging. Most of them are as follows.

Duration of the Journey

Mera Peak Climbing is a high-altitude climb that takes you to a sky-touching elevation of 6,476 m. No one on this planet can easily accrue this height all of a sudden. Climbers need enough acclimatization time to get used to the new yet high elevations. Thus, the duration of the climbing period directs the challenging level of the Mera Peak Expedition.

Mera Peak climbing requires at least seventeen days including your arrival, departure, and acclimatization days along with a contingency day. For a successful and safe Mera Peak journey, one needs to ascend gradually by acclimatizing entirely to the new elevations, and for that, you should have an itinerary that has enough acclimatization days before the summit days.

The longer acclimatization days mean less probability of Acute Mountain Sickness. Let us say for example if you do have not adequate acclimatization and rest days before the summit day, you will get trapped by altitude sickness. And you know how bad the sickness can turn if not precautionary or cured on time. Thus, the period of the Mera Peak climbing differentiates the striving level of the climb. If you have a longer itinerary, you are on a safe and comfortable trip, and vice versa.

Climbing Route Chosen

Choosing the trekking/climbing route for the Mera Peak Climbing also affects the answer to ‘How difficult is Mera Peak Climbing’. The shorter routes are taken, the more difficult the climbs will be. Normally, there are three routes that you can embark on to achieve the Mera Climb. Let's dive into each of the routes individually.

Mera Peak Climbing: Route I

The first one is the shortest route of all three routes. It leads straight to the peak and is known as the direct route to Mera Peak. The veteran climbers and those who are already acclimatized in the alpine atmosphere do not have much time to adjust to the high altitudes.

The route starts after reaching Zwarta La Pass (4,610m) from Lukla. From here, it takes us to the village of Thagnag and then to the Mera Base Camp. The trail continues through the Base Camp and ends at the Mera Summit.
So, pick this route if you are a veteran climber. Even skilled climbers face problems while curving this trail.  Though it will take you to the summit faster than other routes, you are an inexpert mountaineer, this track is not favorable to you. Climbers will not have much time to acclimatize to the elevation which will surely increase the difficulty of the expedition.

Mera Peak Climbing: Route II

The second route for the Mera Peak Expedition is a commonly used route for the climb. This trail is longer than the first route and hence is easier too. Once you reach Lukla from Kathmandu/Manthali, you will catch the route past several villages of the Khumbu region like Pauya, Hinku, Panguam, and Nagindingma. Again passing the Zatra La Pass, you will pass a couple of other villages to reach Mera Peak Base Camp and High Camp before heading to the summit. This route lets you spend more time around and makes you more contented with the diverse elevations.
 Being updated with the elevations, you will begin to climb upwards. During the expedition days, you will spend some days acclimatizing in the tented camps as well (if needed). The longer days’ trek will be more helpful in adjusting to the surrounding atmosphere than the shorter ones. If you are a beginner in the mountaineering world, this route is more suggested than the earlier one.

Mera Peak Climbing: Route III

This route to Mera Peak is the easiest of all three routes. Travelers can presume why it’s easy, the duration is lengthier and you get more acclimatization days during the trek/climb. This trail is suitable for beginners and has been extensively used by starters as well.

The track for this route passes along the Everest Base Camp’s trail up to Namche Bazaar. You will be staying in the lower Everest region for two to three days following this route. However, being the longest route, the skilled climbers will find it a bit boring. In reality, it is really exciting.

You get to explore the numerous parishes of Sherpas before and after the expedition. So going across this course, you will get to Mera Peak Base camp gradually and then only head into the snow. You will acclimatize your body sufficiently for like 3 days before trip the 5000m+. And that means the climbing will be easier than the other courses.

Total Distance of the Trek/Climb

Overall, the Mera Peak Climbing journey covers around 78 miles in the Himalayan foothills of the Khumbu region covering Makalu Barun National Park. Travelers need to pass via rugged terrains for long distances, which can be pretty challenging walking in the thin atmospheric areas. You will need to walk 4-5 hours each day covering 15-20 kilometers each trekking day.

While climbing above Mera Peak Base Camp, there are several glaciers, crevasses, boulders, icicles, and a few other technical lands you need to cover to reach the summit. The geographical condition is quite varied, so it is challenging to cover the distance in this peak climbing journey.

Weather and Temperature conditions

Mera Peak Climbing is one of the high elevated journeys and sometimes the weather and temperature conditions along the trail are pretty extreme and unpredictable. You will be crossing different geographical variations from one to another throughout the journey.

In the high altitudes especially above Khare, the weather becomes quite unexpected. The warm morning turns into an overcast afternoon with thunderstorms and blizzards. These erratic weather conditions can be quite stimulating in such craggy conditions, as there are no teahouses for long distances.

Hence, travelers need to have proper gear and equipment to tackle weather and temperature. Next, you need to choose the on-peak seasons to minimize the risks. Scheduling your trip in Spring and autumn will be very helpful in tackling those hazards. In these seasons, there is stable weather with moderate temperatures along with clear blue skies with implausible views of the snow-capped peaks. 

Acute Mountain Sickness

During your Mera Peak Expedition, you will reach 6476 m. The elevation can be very challenging where you may suffer from Acute Mountain Sickness and if neglected will increase to HACE and HAPE. You need to be properly acclimatized and should move gradually to cope with this problem. Being hydrated regularly, getting sufficient rest, and getting plenty of nutritious food are also helpful.

If you have symptoms like nausea, shortness of breath, vomiting, insomnia, loss of appetite, and like that, you should descend immediately to lower trials. If it increases, you should abandon the trek. You shouldn’t take any risks with altitude sickness. It can be severe.

Physical Strength, Stamina, and Endurance

Climbing Mera demands you to have adequate physical stamina and strength. Travelers shall pass via challenging terrains in this region. It will be beneficial if you have previous high-altitude walking such as Everest Base Camp, Annapurna Base Camp, Annapurna Circuit, or Manaslu round. It would be beneficial if you remained well-equipped with proper gear and other requirements in the area.

We suggest you have proper training including cardiovascular, physical, and mental exercises. One should be both physically, and mentally healthy to complete this journey.

Food and Accommodation

Food and accommodation are the most important factors of a successful journey. During your Mera Peak Climbing, there will be a range of accommodations; a hotel (three-star standard) in Kathmandu, teahouses/trekking lodges during the trek, and camping while climbing (above Base Camp).

The teahouses during the trek are basic ones that provide a room with twin beds having a mattress, a pillow in each, a blanket in each bed, etc. which are needed to spend overnight. You will not find the facilities in these tiny tea houses like in the hotels in Kathmandu or your cities. Thus you must manage the basic facilities and not expect anything fancy. Once you reach the Base Camp or above, you need to stay in the tented camps.

The teahouses themselves provide a limited variety of meals in their teahouses. The most common meal is Daal Bhat which contains rice and pulses with many side dishes like vegetables, lentils, gundruk, pickles, etc. Not only them, but you will also find other varieties of foods as well. However, nothing will keep you thrilled and provide a balanced diet like a Dal Bhat.

Technical Challenges on Mera Peak Difficulty

Mera Peak Climbing involves facing a few challenges that demand focused skills and knowledge. You need to walk passing some glaciers and crevasses during the ascent. Travelers need to be proficient in rope work and should be well-known about the technical gears and equipment including crampons and ice axes. Conveying the crevassed glaciers safely is critical for a successful climb.

Along with that, ice climbing knowledge and skills are crucial for tackling steep slopes and icy parts encountered while climbing. Travelers have to be able to climb vertical or near-vertical ice walls using ice axes and crampons, engaging proper techniques to ensure stability and safety.

Climbing Mera Peak doesn’t include as many technical challenges as other peaks although you need to have basic knowledge of how to walk in the high icy lands somewhere in glaciers as well. Edifying expertise in these skills through practice, instruction, and guided climbs will enhance climbers’ confidence and capability to overcome the technical hindrances met during the ascension.

How to Reduce the Mera Peak Difficulty?

There are numerous ways by using them we can reduce the challenges that occur while climbing Mera Peak. Some of them are discussed below.

Acclimatize Regularly

Acclimatizing in the different places is crucial during the high-elevated trekking/climb. You will reach the high elevation quickly making you prone to Acute Mountain Sickness during the trek/climb. Thus you will walk resting in the different places maintaining the sound pace.

While creating the itinerary for Mera Peak Climbing, we have kept numerous acclimatization points so that your body can easily adapt to changing conditions. While acclimatizing, you will explore the nearby places, and interact with the locals witnessing their cultures and lifestyles. During the acclimatization days, you will follow the motto ‘climb high, sleep low.’

As there are low oxygen levels in high elevations, you can feel various symptoms like headaches, nausea, insomnia, lack of sleep and appetite, etc. which are the prime symptoms of altitude sickness and acclimatization will assist you immensely in tackling altitude sickness-related problems.

Hire Professional Climbing and Trekking Guides

Hiring professional, knowledgeable, skillful, and experienced trekking and climbing Sherpas is the most important aspect of successful peak climbing. Only the veteran guides will have proper navigation along the trail. Not only that, but they also know better how to handle any unexpected circumstances that occur during the trek/climb. Doing so, you shouldn’t be worried about anything regarding the trails and everything throughout the journey.
The professional ones have ideas of how to get first aid facilities if any are required. They know the region’s route and will keep you safe from injuries and accidents along the trail. They also help you to know the culture, history, and lifestyles of the surroundings.

Not only that, translating the local language, they help you to understand everything of the periphery. Besides that, your porters will assist you immeasurably throughout the trip by carrying your duffle bags. They will carry 20-25 kgs, allowing you to go on your journey without bother.

Choose the Peak Season to Climb

It is ideal to climb Mera Peak in one of the peak seasons; the spring and the autumn. During those seasons, you will get the best of the best of everything; weather conditions, temperature, sceneries, and the entire atmosphere. You will travel passing the astonishing backgrounds and observe the silver Himalayan Mountains of the entire Khumbu region.

Along with that hefty number of distinct wildlife can be observed as you pass through Makalu Barun National Park. During these seasons, there are not many weather-related challenges such as floods, heavy snowfalls, heavy showers, avalanches, soil erosion, landslides, etc. Those challenges are mostly faced while traveling in the winter and summer periods.

Monsoon (June to August) has heavy rainfall in Nepal and you will encounter numerous challenges such as heavy rainfall, humid conditions, several insects such as leeches and mosquitoes, landslides, and floods. And the winters are extremely frosty with heavy snowfall.

Get Properly Trained

Climbing any peak or trekking in the high Himalayan lands requires trekkers and climbers to undertake wide-ranging training. You may need to walk in the incredibly rugged terrains in the remotest part of the Himalayan bases. Trekkers need to have the best physical condition, plus proper stamina and strength. Mental strength is also another crucial part of climbing the peak.

Physical exercises can be obtained in the gym or outside the world by running, hiking, and so on. Along with that cardiovascular activities will give you flexibility and breathing capability at a high altitude. It will keep you injury and cramps-free while walking to the rugged terrains of the region.

Customize your Itinerary

You need to customize your trekking itinerary as per your preference and capability. The Mera Peak Climbing journey will take you to the various challenging terrains and you may need to acclimatize more than other climbers or may need more days to be adjusted to the surrounding atmosphere. In the itineraries, you should separate some acclimatization days or contingency days in case of of unpredictable weather conditions, injuries, sickness, and reasons.

The Final Say

Mera Peak Climbing is one of the most demanded trekking packages and it offers the thrill of reaching the summit and incredible views of the world's highest mountains. You can choose any of the trekking routes to reach Khare, the last village before the summit.

From Khare, there is a single route to reach the top of it.  It is a less technical peak compared to other trekking peaks such as Island Peak and Lobuche Peak. The route from High Camp is straightforward although you should be careful about some crevasses on the way.  Acute Mountain Sickness, some glacial sections, and other elevation-related hazards are some significant aspects of the climb, while the rest of the trek is straightforward.

For successful and enjoyable summit push and climbing experiences, adequate preparation and appropriate planning are necessary. To unite your Mera Peak Expedition, you can get in touch with our veteran team and guides, who can give you all the relevant information and support you in the escapade of a lifetime.

By: Krishna Sapkota

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